Two ideologies, cosmic and chaos, fuse in Mary Katrantzou’s Spring Summer 2016 collection, expressing the concept of movement, of voyage into uncharted territories. An exploration of exploration. Godets of print, colour and maze-like channels of lace sit alongside alongside puzzling pieces of print and lace and matelasse patterns. Embroideries and prints draw on the Flammarion engraving of medieval cosmology, frequently used as an illustration of the quest for knowledge. The palette is solarised, contrasting brilliant, glowing colour with an undercurrent of sombre midnight shades. Mary Katrantzou leads us to the solution from a puzzle of her own devising, mapping her own aesthetic voyage.
Returning to her alma mater, the Spring Summer 2016 collection was show in the light filled welcoming atrium of the the newly constructed Central Saint Martins at London’s Kings Cross. The space was transformed into a shimmering cosmos with a luminous blue runway reflected in a towering mirrored backdrop continuing the runway towards the heavens.