Love’s young dream. For Autumn Winter 2016, Mary Katrantzou is enamoured by alove story of opposing halves and attractive opposites, masculine fusing with feminine. Inspiration initially came from two aspirational, archetypal models of children growing up: the cowboy and the princess, fusing together into singular garments, collaging gendered elements - rodeo is cross-pollinated with Prokofiev's Romeo and Juliet, creating a new arresting hybrid. Cinema is a key reference: Wild At Heart, Natural Born Killers, Baz Luhrman’s Romeo and Juliet. All tell a twisted tale, but all start with the freedom and innocence of young love, the old tale of boy meets girl. The cinematic starting-point infuses the collection with the notion of Americana, panoramic cinematic landscapes and saturated Technicolor imagery, Andy Warhol’s portraits of Cowboys and queens in unreal silkscreened shades. Motifs from different worlds are paired into couples, aesthetic Romeos and Juliets. Butterflies find counterparts with eagles, hellfire flames with angels’ wings, hearts with stars. A cinematic collection that will warm the coldest heart.
Showing at the cavernous entrance hall at Central Saint Martins, the space was transformed by Bureau Betak into Warholian mirror with a metallic silver foiled runway filled with a backdrop of silver foiled balloons. The perfect setting for the the collection themes of duality, lovers and love lost.